Common Questions

Tile Installation FAQ

Before the Job

How do I know if my subfloor can handle tile?

Tile needs a stiff, flat substrate. For wood-framed floors, the deflection (bounce) needs to be within a specific tolerance — generally no more than L/360, where L is the span length in inches. We check this during the estimate. If the floor flexes too much, tile set over it will crack at the grout lines over time. The fix is usually adding a layer of cement backer board or a decoupling membrane like Schluter Ditra, which allows some independent movement between the tile and the subfloor.

Concrete slabs are more forgiving structurally, but they need to be checked for cracks, high spots, and moisture before we set anything.

Do I need to buy the tile, or do you supply it?

Either way works. Some homeowners prefer to source their own tile — they've found something specific at a showroom or online. Others prefer us to handle procurement. If you're buying your own, we'll give you a square footage number plus a recommended overage percentage (typically 10-15% for straight-lay patterns, up to 20% for diagonal layouts). Ordering short and running out mid-job is a problem, especially with natural stone or discontinued lines where dye lots won't match.

How long does tile installation take?

It depends on the scope. A kitchen backsplash is usually a one-day job. A full bathroom gut-and-retile — removing old tile, installing backer board, setting new tile, and grouting — typically runs three to five days depending on size and complexity. Large floor areas add time. We give you a realistic timeline in the written estimate, not an optimistic one.

Keep in mind that after tile is set, it needs to cure before grouting (usually 24 hours), and after grouting it needs to cure before heavy use (another 24-72 hours depending on the grout type). We factor this into the schedule.

Materials and Choices

What's the difference between porcelain and ceramic tile?

Both are clay-based and kiln-fired, but porcelain is fired at higher temperatures and made from finer, denser clay. The result is a tile with lower water absorption (under 0.5% for porcelain vs. up to 3% for ceramic). For floors and wet areas, porcelain is more durable and less prone to chipping. Ceramic is lighter and easier to cut, which makes it common for wall applications. Both are appropriate choices depending on the location and the look you want.

Does natural stone tile require special care after installation?

Yes. Natural stone is porous to varying degrees. Marble, limestone, and travertine need to be sealed after installation and periodically thereafter — typically once a year for high-traffic areas. Granite is denser and less porous but still benefits from sealing. Slate varies widely by origin. We'll tell you what your specific material needs and apply the initial sealer as part of the job. Ongoing maintenance is something we can walk you through before we leave.

What grout should I use, and does the color matter structurally?

Grout type matters structurally; color is aesthetic. For joints under 1/8 inch, unsanded grout is used. For joints 1/8 inch and wider, sanded grout provides better fill and less shrinkage. Epoxy grout is more stain-resistant and harder but more difficult to work with and typically used in commercial or high-stain-risk areas. Color-wise, lighter grouts show dirt more readily and stain more visibly. Darker grouts can bleed slightly onto light-colored tile during application if not handled carefully. We discuss all of this before the job starts.

During and After

Can I stay in my home while the work is being done?

For most jobs, yes. Tile work in a bathroom or kitchen creates dust during demolition and cutting, but we contain it and clean up daily. If we're working on a primary bathroom, you'll want an alternative for a few days. If the project is a kitchen floor or backsplash, the kitchen may be inaccessible during parts of the day. We'll let you know what to expect at each stage so you can plan accordingly.

What happens if a tile cracks or chips after installation?

If something was done incorrectly on our end — improper substrate prep, insufficient mortar coverage, a void under the tile — we'll address it. If a tile gets chipped by something falling on it after the job is done, that's normal wear. Either way, we always recommend keeping a small number of leftover tiles from the original installation. Tile gets discontinued, and matching a replacement even a year later can be difficult. Having spares from the same dye lot makes repairs much cleaner.